Note: After the tank cycles we suggest that you run ammonia
and nitrite tests every other day for a week, and anytime
after adding new fish, corals or other marine life to your tank.

Fish-Only chart

What Is A "Biological Filter"?

The biological filter in a saltwater aquarium is nothing more than a place for bacteria to grow. Any surface in an aquarium which comes in contact with tank water and the nitrobacter & nitrosomona bacteria species that you created when you cycled the tank is part of your bilogical filter. The velocity of the water passing over the bacteria also affects the efficiency of the biological. The faster the water moves over the bacteria, the more efficient it is, up to the point where the bacteria is being stripped from the filter surface.

The efficiency (strength) of a biological filter is determined by its surface area and the amount of water passing over it. Some filter medium are more efficient than others.

Protein Skimming

What is it and How Does it Work?

Exactly what is protein skimming, and how does it work? It's simple! Protein skimming, also known as foam fractionation, is accomplished by using a protein skimmer. The purpose of a protein skimmer is to remove DOC's (Dissolved Organic Compounds) from aquarium water, thus improving the quality of the water. There are various styles of skimmers, but their overall design and functionality are pretty much the same.

A protein skimmer is constructed in a tube or tower design, has a collection cup at the top, and in some cases a water return tube. The skimmer works by injecting massive, very fine air bubbles into the tube by means of using either air stones or a high pressure water pump and air valve. The rising air bubbles act as a lift in the tube, allowing the chemical compounds of the DOC's to attach to the bubbles and hitch a ride to the

The explanation of what and how skimming works is pretty straight forward, now let's take a look at the three basic styles of protein skimmers used:

• With the Air Driven Counter Current set up, in addition to the skimmer tower it uses an air pump, air stones, and sometimes a water pump. This is the most common type of skimmer used overall and you can find them commercially available at any good saltwater fish store or mail order company.
• The Venturi style skimmer uses a venturi value to inject air bubbles into the water by means of a high pressure water pump. A venturi valve is a special type of valve that has one entry for air, and two, an entry and an exit, for water. They are smaller, fit underneath the aquarium cabinet, and are often less expensive.
• The E.T.S. (Environmental Tower Scrubber) or Downdraft style skimmer uses a tower with plastic bio media, like bio-balls, in the center of the tower where water is forced down through it by means of a high pressure stream of water.

Aside from the three basic styles of skimmers, there are also different types of installation; in-tank, hang-on-tank, in-sump, as well as free standing. Some units even incorporate a combination skimmer and biological filter design, such as the BakPak Series from CPR that is very popular amongst aquarists.

Introduction to Fish-Only Tank Lighting

Firstly, I want to make it clear that I do not work for, nor am I on any commercial company's retainer relating to this great hobby. A wide range of articles on this topic can easily be found in most marine aquaria publications today, but all the information discussed here is based upon personal observation and implementation. With the information that I am going to share in this series on saltwater aquarium lighting, I hope to help you learn how not to drive yourself insane, broke, or both! Having said all that, let's begin.

There are many variations of marine life keeping now popular in this country and abroad. For the sake of simplicity, I will categorize this article into the two major subdivisions: fish-only and reef lighting.

Naturally, any lighting package suitable for a reef system would also be useable on a fish-only tank, but it would be rather like hunting squirrel with a stinger missile!

Seeing as how the majority of folks entering the hobby begin with fish-only systems, I will address this area of lighting first. Many of us who contemplate getting started want to begin with the idea of upgrades and expansion down the road, or after "getting their feet wet". This is wise, as it is always preferable to over-compensate in our hobby. Why? The primary consideration is cost. Better to buy that which can be reused or recycled later when that bigger tank and more delicate species catch our eye

The Basic Fundmentals of Fluorescent Tubes

In my introduction to saltwater aquarium lighting, in Chapter 1 I talked about the requirements for lighting a fish-only tank. At the end I began discussing reef aquaria lighting, and provided an outline of the basic types of lighting methods that can be used on a reef system. Since the bulk of reef hobbyists begin with recycled freshwater hardware or introductory marine equipment, I'll first explain the basic fundamentals of fluorescent tubes so you can better understand how they function, and what purposes the various types serve. By understanding these important factors about fluorescent tubes, you will better understand how they will relate to reef lighting as we proceed.

Once more allow me to explain that I will undoubtedly ruffle feathers and cause an occasional guffaw. Occupational hazard, let's move on.

Interestingly enough, I have encountered far more hobbyists that are focused on the hardware more so than the actual animals that all the fancy nomenclature is designed to support. I will not get into the, "what's the best lighting - who's makes the best bulbs", etc., etc., etc. However, what I will do is point out which types of tubes/bulbs/lamps are best for varying conditions or targeted environments. This, after all, is the reason for their ultimate being!

In defense of those folks that want "the best or latest", I applaud your conscience effort to afford your wet-pets with the finest that your money can buy. You may see that you can accomplish similar results spending far less than normally expected. Maybe not as sexy, but definitely effective.

Essentially, fluorescent tubes are the most practical and most cost effective of any lighting source. They burn relatively cool and last many months. What one must watch for when choosing these tubes are their wattages, and CRI (Color Rendition Index), also referred to as "K" (Kelvin).

The Reef System Wattage Rule of Thumb Formula

The general rule of thumb for a reef system calls for 3 to 5 watts per actual gallonage of water. A classic example of this is best visualized using the industry standard, a 55 gallon glass aquarium.

Using the above "Rule" this reef should have a minimum of 165 watts to 275 watts in order to provide the intensity necessary for photosynthesis to take place within marine organism's polyps or tissues. Here are few more examples of reef system wattage requirements using the "Rule".

From these simple examples you can see how easy it is to determine the wattage requirements for your particular reef aquarium needs.

Understanding Tube Wattages, NO vs VHO

Longer length tubes yield higher wattages. To better understand tube wattages, look at the comparison chart below. You can see that the wattages increase with length, no matter which type of tube it is.

Now compare the wattage of the NO (Normal Output) or Standard tubes to that of VHO (Very High Output) tubes. The wattage ratings on the NO/Standard tubes are much lower than that of the VHO tubes of the same length.

As you can see, instead of having to use 6 - 40 watt NO tubes, you can achieve the same or similar results by using just 2 VHO tubes. See why VHO's are the industry standard in reef lighting? The actual number of tubes necessary to achieve that "3 to 5 Rule" makes VHO's a natural!

Fluorescent lamp labeling, such as that of the basic stock NO tube widths of ?T-8? (skinny) and ?T-12? (fat) can be confusing. All this means to us is that the physical size of the fluorescent tube must match the hardware for which it was designed. Rarely can you replace a T-12 in a T-8 fixture, it just won't fit! That's all these ?T? designations refer to, the diameter of the tube. Generally, smaller systems and their corresponding hoods use the T-8 diameter bulb, while the larger units have the elbow room for the larger T-12?s.

Using off-the-shelf lighting would dictate 4 to 6 tubes spread out over the open top of the tank. Open? Absolutely! I don't know of any hood manufacturer that makes a rack that accommodates 6 fluorescent tubes. I've seen many, many 4-tube racks, but why settle for minimum? Maybe the manufacturer's know something we don't? Maybe that something is known as HO (High Output) and VHO (Very High Output). By using these types of "booster" tubes, wattages far in excess of NO/ Standard tubes, fluorescents make packing intensity into tighter and smaller spaces a reality.

About VHO Ballast Requirements and Lumens

An important factor when choosing to use VHO lighting is that one cannot simply buy a VHO fluorescent tube to replace the stock 40 watt bulb that came with that Perfecto hood you purchased!

VHOs require special 1500mA ballasts or ballast kits, and are not compatible with any other ballast. Oh sure, it'll fire up, but why? Your output will be the same as that $2.00 Growlux bulb, so don't succumb to that thought!

1500mA? mA is the ballast amperage rating, and I refuse to get into basic electricity theory here, LOL! We can discuss ballast at another time. The point here is that once you make the conscience decision to upgrade to reef lighting, VHOs are the natural first choice. Cheaper and easier to install, they form the backbone of the hobby's lighting regimes.

What are Lumens?

Lumens is another area of common confusion. Wattage is the "power" of the tube. Lumens are the actual amount of light being "radiated", or the amount of light energy reaching the animals created by the power output of the tube. Wow, now I'm confused!

Actually, let's equate it like this: Consider a shotgun blast. The number of pellets or "shot" that reach it's target is directly proportionate to the muzzle velocity of the gun that is it's source. The magnum shell will deliver more shot to it's "target" than a regular or low-brass shell because of the muzzle velocity. So does the VHO tube over the NO tube. More LUMENS, (or "shot") reach the animals (or "target") than an NO tube, because of wattage (or muzzle velocity). So LUMENS equal the light energy that WATTAGE delivers! This is naturally a gross over-simplification, but I think it works.

About CRI, or Kelvin

CRI is the manufacturer's gauge for the type of light that the tube emits.Type of light? Sure! Did you ever notice that warm white looks yellow compared to cool white in your kitchen ceiling fixture or over your workbench?

This is due to the formulation of phosphors used during the construction of the tube. See how color temperature relates to the "warm white" and "cool white" labels? All well and good for your office or home, but not nearly good enough for our corals and inverts! Hence we rate our tubes by K, and that other thing known as wattage. K stands for Kelvin, or the color temperature, another confusing term for CRI. As a general rule, aquarium related fluorescents in regard to reef habitats should not fall below the 5500K rating.

Please keep in mind that different companies use differing terminology for the same thing. CRI, K, Spectrum, Color Temperature, etc., all refer to the type of light their products produce. Actually, there are sound reasons for using differing names or labels, copyrighting being amongst the most common. Just like car companies use "4X4" or Quad Drive, it still means the same thing!

Basically, and without getting into a deep science seminar, the lower the Kelvin, the more yellow the light. Hence, the higher the Kelvin, our light appears starkly white or blue-white. Getting way up there into the 20,000K range, the bulbs actually appear to glow dark blue! Shades of the blacklight craze! Oh no, don't EVEN go there! Blacklight has tons of that nasty ultraviolet, and our animals don't like that at all! Save it for the bowling alleys or fuzzy posters!

Exploring Kelvin Ratings Further

Let's explore Kelvin a bit further by taking a look at various K ratings, and the reasons for using them.

Why Are Differing Kelvin Ratings Necessary?

Why are differing Kelvin ratings necessary at all? In a word, DEPTH! The natural reef environment begins at the surface and can reach to depths down to 150 feet, or more!.

If you have ever snorkeled or scuba dived, then you're aware of how quickly water depth can effect light intensity. The lower one goes, the dimmer and darker the light, turning from turquoise to azure to cobalt in very quick order. This obstacle haunted the hobby in it's infancy until Philips and other tube manufacturers realized that there was a dollar or two to be made in this hobby! Once it became economically feasible, tubes strictly for our tanks suddenly began appearing in magazines and our stocklist shelves. Holy reef tank Aquaman, I can now keep that once delicate specimen thriving in it's little glass box for more than a month or two!

Seriously, the K rating, or CRI, gives you the ability to match the tank lighting to that of your animal's natural habitat. Without this important advances in the industry we could never hope to duplicate lighting conditions at DEPTH in our living rooms, and provide as near identical conditions for our corals and inverts as that in nature.

Now wattage plays a part here, too. The higher the wattage, the deeper it will penetrate. With the right K rating though, a hobbyist could conceivably duplicate conditions at say 50 feet in an aquarium only 18" deep. It's a trade-off, higher wattage vs. proper K rating. Combine the two and you achieve reef lighting Nirvana! Why go there? SPS corals, for one,

Introduction to Coral Lighting

I mentioned SPS corals and the necessity for proper CRI and intensity. First and foremost, most corals can be placed into three major catagories: [bStony (exterior skeletons), Soft (no calcium-based skeleton), and SPS (Short/Small Polyped Stony). Naturally, the scientific world can catagorize these animals down to the "inth" degree, but for our purposes these three categories will suffice.

When it comes to how corals grow, each category of animal requires its own unique lighting requirements, but all share one common trait; photosynthesis in order to survive.

Just as plants convert sunlight to produce chlorophyl, marine animals survive similarily by converting light energy into "food". Actually, this energy is consumed by zooxanthellae algae?s that produce by products that the corals need to survive; a true symbiotic relationship.

Coloration of coral polyps and tissues is dictated by these zooxanthellae. By differing the spectral output of our tank lighting we can actually influence the ultimate color/shading of our corals. How? Let's say that we have been using a 5500K VHO flourescent setup at 220 watts. We get that itch to spend money and help our tank and animals by installing a 250 watt metal halide with a 10,000K lamp. Aside from the asthetics of the rippling light show these lamps provide, we have suddenly changed the frequency of light that all the animals in our system have grown accustomed to. I use the term "frequency" to describe the change in CRI or spectral output.

Often, the corals will shrink up, close their polyps, or otherwise show their displeasure at this sudden and drastic change in their energy source.

It's actually the billions of symbiotoc algaes that are recoiling, sending shockwaves through their host and causing this rapid change in appearance. Within days, and sometimes even hours, the zooxanthellaes will adapt to this new frequency and intensity by changing their absorption capabilities or their overall color. That's right, the coral's color is actually that of their hitch-hiking algaes, adapting to the increases or decreases of ultraviolet and other energy-source factors.

Have you ever looked at a Tridacna clam from the top of the tank, then lower your gaze to a sideways view, only to be disappointed? Strange how dull the clam's color appears from the side, while from above all those rich and vibrant colors seem to shout at the sky? Well, that's the clam's zooxanthellae algaes, doing their thing, protecting the clam's delicate tissues from sunburn!

Whenever a change in lighting takes place, and don't be fooled, even replacing old tubes/lamps with the exact same wattage and URI can create the same response if the old tubes have been allowed to degrade past their useful spectral output, the system should be allowed to gradually adjust to this major change. How? I ususally replace lamps and tubes just after the system shuts down for the night. I then replace or exchange old for new and insure that next morning, not all the lights kick on at the same time, allowing intervals between pairs or types of tubes. If you have only a two-tube system this isn't possible, but the installation of a dimmer circuit like ones found on some electronic ballasts, makes the chore much easier to accomplish.

Remember that corals and their zooxanthellae adapt to changes in their surroundings the same as we humans do.

Whereas we may shade our eyes from bright sunlight, these animals have no such luxury. They must react as only they can, by recoil and a slow but gradual return to normal behaviour. Interesting how we can't discuss lighting without getting involved in the coral's actual physical properties, isn't it? Well, afterall it IS the primary reason for lighting at all!

SPS (Short/Small Polyped Stony) corals are by far the most numerous in the skeleton catagory. I will not delve into the physiology or other biological factors of these corals, other than to state that they, above all others, require the most dynamic of light sources.

Not until the advent of aquarium related halide lamps was this light source truly ready for our use. The incredible intensity of the metal halide lamp makes providing the right output of light ideal for maintaining these delicate-to-establish corals. Once they grab hold, SPS corals can be the most proflific of all their kind, growing at enormous rates and prompting many cuttings. These coral cuttings, known as frags, can then be propagated through "coral-farming", which is highly practiced by many hobbyists and commerical aquaculturing companies today.

Naturally, factors other than the lights themselves contribute to the success of any coral, but once the water parameters and the lighting system are acceptable to the animals themselves, watch out. LOL!

Wet/Dry Trickle Filters

What They Are

Wet/dry trickle filters have been a popular choice in biological filtration for a very long time in the saltwater hobby. However, as the technology in aquarium keeping has advanced and the desire to attain a "natural" reef system becomes ever popular, controversy surrounds this choice.

Often referred to as nitrate factories, many aquarists believe that wet/dry filters are suitable for fish-only tanks, but not reef systems. Over time the bio-material inside the wet/dry chamber becomes dirty, which eventually leads to a build up of unwanted nitrates in the aquarium, and as you should know, nitrates are not reef friendly! Therefore, to better understand this type of biological filter choice, let's take a closer look at how it works and its three basic components; the drip/trickle plate, the pre-filter set up, and the bio-material used inside.

How Does a Wet/Dry Filter Work?

There are many designs to choose from when it comes to wet/dry filters, but they all work on the same concept. A wet/dry filter, also referred to as a trickle filter or a bio-tower, is an aerobic filtration method.

For those of you that may not understand the term aerobic, it means occurring or living ONLY in the presence of oxygen. In other words, it can only work when oxygen is present. For this type of filtration, the more oxygen saturation it gets, the better it functions.

Water is pumped from the aquarium, then by means of a drip/trickle plate or rotating spray arm the water is dispensed or "trickled" down over and through a biological material source contained in the wet/dry filter chamber, but not before the water is pre-filtered by means of mechanical filtration, which can be accomplished with the aid of a protein skimmer or by placing a pre-filter material such as filter floss, a filter sponge, or micron filter felt on top of the drip/trickle plate area. When the water falls through the holes of the drip/trickle plate onto the bio-media, this allows for aggressive oxygen saturation of the water. Remember, aerobic! The clean filtered water is then deposited back into the aquarium either directly, or first into a sump or some type of water containment area and then returned.

The Importance of a Pre-Filter Set Up

A pre-filter set up allows the tank water to be cleaned of excess debris, particulates and other unwanted organics (DOCs or dissolved organic compounds) before it passes through the bio-media in the wet/dry chamber. By using this process it helps to prevent the bio-material from getting clogged and dirty, as this is what can contribute to the build up of nitrates in an aquarium. A double drip/trickle pre-filter plate design, where one plate drips down onto the other, can also be incorporated. The first plate holds the pre-filter material on it, and the second is just a plain drip plate.

Wet/Dry Trickle Filters

How They Work

It is important to keep the pre-filter material changed. The purpose of the pre-filter is to only collect unwanted junk in the water, and nothing else. If the pre-filter material is not maintained regularly, this can decrease the flow rate of the water that trickles into the wet/dry filter, in turn decreasing the oxygen saturation level. This also allows the pre-filter material to act as a contributor to the build up of unwanted nitrates in the aquarium.

The frequency that you change the pre-filter material depends on the animal and feeding load you have on your system, but no less than a weekly change is recommended, and it definitely should be changed when it begins to turn brown.

About Choosing a Bio-Material

Just about anything can be used as a biological filteration material, but ideally you want a type of media that has a large surface area for growing bacteria, does not compress down, is saltwater friendly, and has good water/oxygen exposure around and through it.

The top choice bio-media is usually in the form small spiked plastic balls, or bio-balls, but there are many other types of bio-media one has to pick from (see Choosing a Biological Filtration Material). Some commercially sold wet/dry filters even come equipped with their own bio-media designed by the manufacturer to use specifically with their products. One example of this is CPR Aquatic, Inc.'s Wet/Dry Filters that come with CPR's trademark Bio-Bale.

If nitrates mysteriously begin rising in your aquarium, the accumulation of dissloved organic matter on the bio-material contained in the wet/dry chamber may be the culprit. For this reason it is important that you keep the bio-media free from DOC build up, which means it peridocially should be cleaned. As discussed earlier, by having a a good efficient pre-filter set up you should not have to clean the bio-media very often. Read "Bio-Balls Don't Go Bad, They Just Get Dirty!" for more on this topic and to learn how to properly clean bio-materials.

About Removing the Bio-Media

With the desire to attain a "natural" reef system, or that unwanted nitrate will become a concern, often aquarists will completely remove the bio-media from the wet/dry filter chamber AFTER their system has become well established and convert it into a sump box, allowing the live rock and sand to become the main biological filtration source. This can be done, but ONLY by removing about 1/4 of the media at any one time in at least 1 week intravels, testing for the appearance of ammonia in between to assure that the system is remaining stable during the elimination process of this biological filtration source. If ammonia does appear, DO NOT remove any additional media until the level drops back to zero, and then only continue on after waiting several weeks to allow the nitrifying bacteria population to build up again.

It is important NOT to add any new livestock to the system during this transition period as well. In our opinion a wet/dry trickle filter is an efficient biological filter choice, but only if it is properly maintained and other regular aquarium maintenance and water change routines are followed!

Bio-Balls Don't Go Bad, They Just Get Dirty!

Why blame bio-balls for nitrate problems when it's not their fault?

How often have you read postings or email from aquarists who complain about their bio-balls going bad? The quickest and most often suggested solution we see to this problem is to, get rid of the bio-balls, now!! This is ridiculous. It is NOT the bio-balls contained in a wet/dry trickle or other type of biological filter that have gone "bad", but just like with an undergravel filter, it is the "lack of proper maintenance" that turns them into a nitrate factory.

It is only when bio-balls as well as other similar types of biological filtration mediums are allowed to become dirty and encrusted or embedded with broken down matter or dissolved organic compounds (DOCs) that they then start to contribute to the accumulation of nitrate in a saltwater aquarium or reef tank system.

There is no need to immediately trash or remove them, which should NOT been done in the first place because it can cause your whole system to crash, you just need to clean them up. Once this has been accomplished, and as long as this is the "sole source" generating the nitrate in the aquarium, with some water changes and by keeping to a good regular maintenance routine after that, nitrate and bio-balls woes in all likelihood will decrease.

How can you tell if the bio-balls are dirty?

One way you can test to see if it's time for a cleaning is by ruffling or lightly stirring up the top layer of the bio-balls. When this is done you will see gunk break loose from them. The only problem is that in most all cases the mass of the organic matter settles in the bottom layer of the bio-chamber, because it gets pushed down by the water dispensed into the filter over time. You can stir the bio-balls up from the bottom to see how things look, but be careful doing this. If the filter is running and the output water goes directly back into the aquarium without being filtered first, it can shoot a bunch of the gunk right into the tank. To prevent this you can place a micron-mesh bag that is fine enough to catch the organic matter as the water is dispersed into the tank. To assist with cleaning up any possible organic matter that may get into the aquarium while you are testing for, as well as performing a cleaning, attach a simple hang-on-tank canister filter for mechanical filtration and run it during and several hours afterwards.

Before You Start Cleaning

• This is a procedure suggested to be performed only on aquariums that have been running for at least 4 months, because the nitrifying bacteria have had time to develop a strong population, and in all likelihood the bio-balls have begun to accumulate a substantial, but not overwhelming amount of DOCs.
• As far as how often a cleaning needs to be done, if your system has been running for some time, say longer than 6 months, with no bio-ball maintenance at all, it may take a little time to get them cleaned up first. After that you can determine when cleanings need to be performed based on how your individual system is set up and functions. After a while you will know when to do it.
• Even though periodic bio-ball cleanings are important, this procedure may weaken the nitrifying bacteria population that keeps the ammonia/nitrite in check in an aquarium. Therefore, it is vital that you do it properly to avoid stressing your system, and possibly causing new tank syndrome.

How To Clean Dirty Bio-Balls

It is NOT the bio-balls in a wet/dry trickle or other type of inert biological filter that go BAD! Just like with an undergravel filter, it is the "lack of proper maintenance" that turns them into a nitrate factory. If you periodically rinse them off and keep them clean, nitrate and bio-balls woes should decrease, as long as this is the sole source of the nitrate problem in the aquarium.

Difficulty: Easy

Time Required: 30 minutes or less

Here's How:

1. Place some new saltwater in a five gallon plastic bucket, or any other type of good sized deep plastic container. This is where you will rinse and clean the bio-balls off. If you are planning for a water change, water removed from the aquarium may be used for this as well.
2. Turn off the filter.
3. Remove about 1/4 of the bio-balls from the filter chamber and place them into the container with the saltwater.
4. Stir and swish the bio-balls around in the saltwater to break all the gunk or organic matter loose that is stuck on them. If they are extremely dirty, you may have to repeat this step. DO NOT scrub the bio-balls! Just allow the saltwater to do the job, nothing more than that.
5. Scoop the rinsed bio-balls out and place them back into the filter bio-chamber. A plastic kitchen colander works great for this, but any type of cup or small container with drain holes in it will do. The bio-balls come out, the yucky water stays behind.
6. Restart the filter.
7. Test for the appearance of ammonia every few days for a week, then every several days over another week after that. If the testss read near zero after this time, it is ok to repeat the process. If ammonia does appear, wait until readings drop back to zero, then wait another couple of weeks after that before repeating the process with the next batch of bio-balls.

Tips:

1. This procedure is suggested to be performed on aquariums that have been running for at least 4 months, because the nitrifying bacteria have had time to develop a strong population, and in all likelihood the bio-balls have begun to accumulate a substantial, but not overwhelming amount of DOCs (Dissolved Organic Compounds) on them.
2. NEVER use freshwater to clean the bio-balls, and NEVER clean all the bio-balls at once, as this in all likelihood WILL cause your system to crash! Because this procedure strips away and weakens the nitrifying bacteria population present on the bio-balls that the aquarium relies on to keep ammonia and nitrite in check, only clean about 1/4 of the bio-balls during any one cleaning session.
3. If your system has been running for sometime, say longer than 6 months, with no bio-ball maintenance at all, it may take a little time to get them cleaned up first. After that you can determine when periodic cleanings need to be performed based on how your individual system is set up and functions. You'll learn to know when it needs to be done.
4. Test for cleaning by lightly stirring up the top layer of the bio-balls. You will see gunk break loose. The only problem here is that in most all cases the mass of the organic matter settles in the bottom layer. You can stir the bio-balls up from the bottom, but be careful doing this because you may get a bunch of gunk shot into the tank if the filter output goes directly into the tank.
5. This procedure can be used to clean not only bio-balls, but other types of biological filtration mediums as well.

What You Need:

• 5 gallon plastic bucket
• new or used saltwater
• plastic kitchen colander
• ammonia test kit

Aquarium Maintenance Procedures

What Should Be Performed, and When?

Now that your saltwater aquarium is up and running, meaning it has finished cycling and been several weeks since you performed the first basic maintenance tasks one should follow after this process, it's time to set up a schedule and begin standard maintenance procedures. Even though this is something that most all aquarists dread doing, aquarium maintenance is extremely important, as it will insure that your fish and other livestock have a healthy and stable environment to live in.

There are some simple daily procedures that all aquarists should practice, but unfortunately there is no set structure for performing other weekly, bi-weekly, monthly, or longer in between maintenance tasks because no two tanks are set up and run the same, and everyone has their own opinion as well as reason as to what, when, and how often any particular task should or needs to be done. The bottom line is that as time progresses and your tank matures you will come to know your system, and from this you will develop a routine that fits your aquarium's individual maintenance needs.

Keeping this in mind, here is our list of standard maintenance procedures that should be on your schedule.

Daily Tasks

• Check all pieces of electrical equipment to be sure they are running properly, and for components that pump water or air, check for blockages. This includes checking the heater(s), as well as the tank's temperature.
• Sit back and "observe" the fish and other livestock. How do the fish, corals, etc. look? Is there any noticeable change in their appearance, activity, eating or characteristic habits?
• How does the water look and smell? Clear and clean? Cloudy? Smelly? If it doesn't look right, or it has an odor to it, test the water for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate to see what may be going on.

Weekly & Other Tasks

Weekly Tasks

• Check any mechanical water filtering material (floss, sponge, pad, cartridge) to see if it needs to be changed or cleaned. It is suggested to do this whenever the filter material becomes dirty (brown), and the water flow through the unit diminishes, which may even be several times a week.
• It is surprising how much salt creep can block out or diminish light, so wipe off and remove any salt build up that may have accumulated on the tank light bulbs, as well as protective cover if present.
• Even though you may have tank janitors or sand sifters/stirrers, it doesn't hurt to "lightly ruffle up" small areas of the substrate each week to help prevent excess detritus and other organic matter build up in the lower levels of the gravel or sand. Besides, if you have filter feeding livestock, the microscopic particles released make an ideal food source for many of these types of animals. This task can be done by hand, using a stick of some kind, or with a turkey baster.

Other Tasks
To be performed based on each individual's system, or when needed.

• Replace evaporated water with an appropriate freshwater source.
• Water changes.
• Water testing.

Tip: No matter when and how often you test the water parameters, it is suggested that over several days following any cleaning task or water change to run pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate tests to see how the tank is doing.

• Remove any unwanted algae from the tank walls, substrate, rocks, etc.
• Change chemical filtration materials, such as carbon (GAC), nitrate and phosphate sponges, etc. These types of products are designed to "absorb and remove" various compounds from the aquarium water, which after a period of time exceed their absorption capabilities, and therefore become exhausted and need to be replaced or revitalized.
• When it comes to feeding fish and other livestock, only feed them as much as they will consume in about two to five minutes time. If overfeeding occurs and uneaten food begins to accumulate on the bottom of the tank, siphon it off the surface of substrate, then cut back on the amount and frequency of feedings. Any larger chunks of food can easily be removed with a net or by hand.

Tip: Most often cloudy and smelly water problems are associated with overfeeding, as well as overstocking. Perform a partial water change and cut back on feeding to see if this resolves the situation.

• Add whatever calcium (kalkwasser/limewater), iodine/iodide, strontium, or other supplements and vitamins are required for your particular type of system.

For Tanks That Are at Least 4 Months

• If you have a standard UGF (undergravel filter), it is a good idea to perform a light but fairly deep siphon cleaning of the gravel, associated with a water change, and do so once every couple of months to prevent a build up of DOCs, because this leads to an accumulation of nitrates in the tank. If running a reverse-flow undergravel filter, clean it by following the manufacturer's instructions.
• If you have wet-dry trickle filter that holds a bio-material, particularly bio-balls, it is suggested to begin removing about 1/4 of the material once a month, place it into a bucket or container of new saltwater and to break loose the gunk, then put the cleaned material back into the filter chamber. It is NOT the wet-dry trickle filter's bio-material that goes bad, it is allowing it to become encrusted or packed with undesirable organic matter that makes these units become a nitrate factory!

Top 10 Most Common Mistakes Made by Saltwater Aquarists

The problems that saltwater aquarium owners typically encounter usually stem from making the same common mistakes. By being aware of these mistakes, they can often be avoided. Of course there are other reasons why aquaria keeping difficulties may occur, but here is our list of what we consider to be the top most common ones made by aquarists, or what we like to call "The Cardinal Sins of Saltwater Aquaria Keeping".

1) Moving Too Fast

"Patience" is a requirement with just about anything that you do with a saltwater aquarium. Far too many people report problems after they have put a tank together, because they are just moving too fast! Far too often we have read aquarists comments like, "I need test kits? What for, and what kind?" Of course this is after they have had a tank for some time. A high percentage of people do not take the time to read and study up on the hobby before getting started.

2) Overloading the Tank

A problem that goes hand-in-hand with moving too fast, craming too much livestock and/or live rock into the aquarium all at once, especially in a tank that is not fully cycled, or has just completed the cycling process. Even in a well established system, placing too many new additions into the tank to quickly can cause new tank syndrome. Slow down! Saltwater aquaria keeping is not a timed event, so take it easy, and work on your patience skills.

3) Misdiagnosing Diseases

When it comes to diagnosing diseases, saltwater ich is the biggest problem. It is easy to confuse Oodinium (Amyloodinium ocellatum - a.k.a. Marine Velvet or Coral Fish Disease) with White Spot Disease (Cryptocaryon irritans). They are similar, but two quite different types of saltwater ich, and each responds to different types of treatment. It is important to properly diagnose and treat these parasites, as well as other diseases.

4) Overmedicating

Way too often one or more remedies are just thrown at a sick or ailing fish without knowing what the problem is. Medications should only be used when necessary, and whenever possible in a quarantine tank. The most important factor with medications is to be sure and use one that is formulated to "target" the specific disease or diseases you are dealing with.

5) Inadequate Filtration

Having sufficient biological filtration is the one of the keys to success in keeping a saltwater aquarium. There are a number of filtration methods to choose from, but not making the right filter selection for the bio-load planned for your tank can lead to a wide variety of problems. Whether it be biological, mechanical, or chemical, it's better to have more, rather than too little filtration.

6) Purchasing Animals Without Knowing Anything About Them

It never ceases to amaze us how often people select new additions for their aquarium without knowing what the animals are, how to care for and feed them. Before purchasing anything, take the time to obtain information about it first. You shouldn't buy on impulse because you like the pretty colors a fish has, how cute or stunning it looks, or for any other "touchy-feely" reason, or if a sales person can't provide you with critical information you need to know about a particular animal.

7) Livestock Incompatibility

Statements like my wrasse ate my hermit crab, my tangs just won't get along, and similar ones are all too frequently heard. Purchasing livestock without knowing whether or not they will peacefully reside with other tank mates can lead to dead or injured animals, as well as stress related diseases. Use common sense and learn about the compatibility of animals you are considering for your aquarium, before putting them together!

8) Purchasing Animals in Poor Health

One of the easiest things to do when selecting a critter is to determine whether or not it is healthy. In a simple phrase, most sick fish don't eat. Before purchasing a fish or other animal, it is best to have a sale's person in a store show you that it is in fact eating. On your part, learn how to recognize the symptoms or outward signs of common illnesses so you know what to look for when inspecting livestock to buy.

9) Using a Poor Quality Freshwater Source

Although many aquarists do so, choosing to use straight tap or another unpurified freshwater source for making up saltwater solutions and topping-off a tank can lead to many water quality problems in aquariums. Using a water purification filter, buying clean natural sea water or pre-filtered RO/DI water from a reliable source to make up salt mixes with is a good investment.

10) Lack of Proper Tank Maintenance

Well maintained saltwater systems seldom experience high nitrate, bacterial outbreaks, or other water quality issues. To avoid the usual pitfalls with problems in this area of aquaria keeping, set up and follow a regular maintenance routine.